HOME & GARDEN CONSUMER GUIDE
Picking The Sweetest Green Peas
I am picky about food. Very picky. In summer, this means I buy fresh corn and tomatoes only at the local farmers’ markets, because they have been harvested just hours before. But I always pass over the English peas, the kind that must be shelled.Why do the corn and tomatoes pass muster but the peas do not measure up? Like corn, fresh peas are naturally high in sugar. As soon as both are picked, this sugar starts converting to less sweet-tasting carbohydrates. This process happens more rapidly with peas than with corn. It happens so quickly that I only enjoy them fresh, with friends who live in the country, grow their own and strip them out of the pod while still in their garden, and toss them immediately into a waiting pot of boiling water. Minus this scenario, the result is not worth the bother.
Precisely because just-picked peas are best, frozen baby green peas are the ideal choice at any time of year. They are one of the rare instances when a commercially-processed vegetable is nearly always superior to fresh. The pick-and-pack process gets them from the field to freezer in less time than most farmers can get their peas to a local market. This rapid processing preserves their peak flavor.
Frozen peas, particularly the baby kind, are more reliably tender, and more convenient, too. Instead of guessing how many pounds to buy in the pod for a recipe, just measure out the amount of frozen peas desired, leaving the rest in the freezer.
Recently, I discovered this summery combination of green peas and arugula. The puréed sweet peas and just-wilted pungent greens are tossed with pasta. Using the same water for the peas and then the pasta speeds preparation. Using a bit of this cooking water to thin the sauce is a frequent Italian technique. A splash of balsamic vinegar and a grating of fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese complete the dish to perfection.
Peas With Pasta And Greens
- 1 large bunch arugula, washed, stems removed
- 2 large garlic cloves
- 10 oz. package frozen baby green peas
- 8 oz. fettucini or, if unavailable, linguini
- 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
- 1 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
- 1 tsp. balsamic vinegar
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cut greens crosswise into 1/2-inch strips, making about 4 cups, and set aside.
Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add peas and cook for 4 minutes. Meanwhile, fill a medium bowl with ice cold water. When tender, transfer peas to the bowl with a slotted spoon. Let peas cool, then drain well. Meanwhile, add pasta to the pot of boiling water and cook according to package directions. While pasta cooks, purée peas with chopped garlic in a blender, adding 2 to 3 tablespoons water from the water in the pasta pot, as needed, to make a coarse, pulpy purée. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add arugula and lightly sauté, stirring, until greens are shiny and wilted, about 1 minute. Set aside.
Using a vegetable peeler, shave cheese into thin slices and shards. (Freshly shaved or grated cheese tastes better than cheese bought already prepared.)
When pasta is tender, drain it and place in a large bowl. Add purée and greens and lightly toss to combine. Divide mixture among 4 bowls or plates. Place cheese on top of greens. Drizzle on vinegar and serve.
Makes 4 servings.
Per serving: 319 calories, 7 g. total fat (2 g. saturated fat), 50 g. carbohydrate, 14 g. protein, 6 g. dietary fiber, 218 mg. sodium.
By Dana Jacobi for the American Institute for Cancer Research
“Something Different” is written for the American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) by Dana Jacobi, author of The Joy of Soy, and recipe creator for AICR’s Stopping Cancer Before It Starts.
